Tiling grout strengthens the tile and keeps water from entering the joints. As well as the practical purpose of grout, it also adds aesthetically to the tiling project or job. Usually tiling grout is a neutral color but there are so many colors available now that any tiling grout color combination is possible. In general, it is best not to pick white or a light color for floor applications since dirt will quickly make it look dingy and you will end up with a mucky off white colour or yellowish tinge to your grout. This may lead to you having to repeat the grouting to your tiling job again.
Tiling grout application is actually a fairly simple job after the harder parts of laying and levelling the tile. The tools and equipment you need for your tiling grouting job are tiling grout, bucket, kneepads, tiling grout float, tiling grout sponge and waterproof gloves.
Tiling grout is available in premixed tiling grout form or in tiling grout powder form. The premixed tiling grout depends upon evaporation for drying and therefore is really only appropriate for small wall tiling applications which will not be in contact with water. The powder form of tiling grout is cement based and therefore dries chemically which provides a much stronger and harder joint. Powdered tiling grout is available in sanded or non-sanded mixtures. Sanded tiling grout is appropriate for tiling joints larger than 3mm and usually used for floor tiling applications. Non-sanded tiling grout is for wall tiling applications with a tiling joint width of less than 3 mm. It is possible to purchase a polymer-modified tiling grout or a tiling grout polymer additive, which adds flexibility and provides more water resistance but it is a little more difficult to work with on your tiling job. Polymer additives are indicated when the backing surface onto which your tiling is to be applied is wood since the wood will bend and flex and a polymer-modified grout will flex without cracking.
Tiling Grout Mixture - The first step to applying tiling grout is to mix the tiling grout. It is very important to use gloves, goggles and a mask when dealing with cement based tiling grout powders. The tiling grout bag has the proportion of water to tiling grout for mixing but factors such as heat will affect the mixture so add water only a little at a time to the tiling grout mix. The consistency of tiling grout should be about the same as peanut butter. A watery tiling grout mixture will take much longer to dry and is harder to work with. Once the tiling grout is mixed, it has a working time of 20-40 minutes so only mix small batches of your tiling grout or it will be necessary to throw away tiling grout and you will have to start your tiling job all over again.
Tiling Grout Application - Apply tiling grout to the tiling joints with a rubber tiling grout float. Press the tiling grout into the tiling joints by holding the tiling float at a 30-degree angle and applying pressure as tiling grout is dragged over the tiling gaps. Be sure that the tiling grout is filling the tiling joint to the bottom surface. Once the tiling grout fills all the tiling joints, scrape the excess tiling grout by holding the tiling float almost vertically as you drag. It is helpful to drag diagonally across the tiling joints to prevent digging in and accidentally removing tiling grout from within the tiling joints. Once the tiling grout has begun setting, use a large tiling sponge and wipe the excess from the tiling joints; do not use too much water in this process. Once the tiling grout hardens, go back with a soft rag and buff the tile to remove tiling grout film. Depending on the tiling application, the last step is a tiling grout sealer, which will help it repel stains and prolong the water-resistant life of your tiling grout and your overall tiling job.
http://www.toptradespeople.co.uk
22 Aug 2009
How To Hang Gutters By: D Anderson Gutters are your house's first defence against water damage and help to direct water away from walls, pavements and foundations. Proper installation of a gutter system can prevent costly structural and cosmetic repairs. Hanging gutters is a fairly simple project with just a few steps and important tips. The first step is to remove the old gutter if one exists. Once the gutter is removed, it is the perfect time to repair or replace the fascia. Prior to purchasing the gutter materials, decide the type of gutter that is most appropriate for the area; a deeper gutter is indicated if there is a lot of local rain, debris guards are a good choice if there are a lot of trees overhanging the roof line. The location of the downspout is the first step to hanging gutters. If there is an existing drain, hang a plumb line and install the outlet in line with the drain. If there is no drain, the downspout should be aimed toward an existing gully. Never point a downspout at a driveway or pavement since it promotes the growth of algae and ice formation. The top of the gutter should never be more than 30mm from the bottom of the roof. After installation of the outlet gutter section, install a fascia bracket 150mm from each end of the gutter run. The gutter may be installed level or with a maximum fall of 3mm per metre. Using a string, extend a line from the insertion line of the outlet to the end of the run. The insertion line allows a moveable joint for expansion. Once the line is extended, install fascia brackets every metre. In addition to brackets every metre, all joints require brackets as well. Install the gutter by tilting the gutter under the back of the fitting and then pushing down into the front of the bracket. Install end caps at the end of the gutter run. Once the gutter is installed, install the downpipe. If the house has a large overhang, use an offset bend to bring the downspout closer to the wall. Downspout support brackets are installed every two metres. If the downspout discharges over an open topped gully, finish the downspout with a rainwater shoe. If the downspout of the gutter discharges into a drain, use a drain adapter. For new construction projects, such as a conservatory, consult the local building authority for proper placement of the downspout. A properly installed and maintained gutter is an inexpensive way to protect your biggest investment. Hanging a gutter requires a little careful planning but can be accomplished in a short amount of time. Your gutters should be cleaned out at least one a year, maybe twice if you live in a very tree lined area. Article source: Articlecat.com About: http://www.toptradespeople.co.uk |
21 Aug 2009
How To Build A Brick Garden Barbecue For DIY Home Improvement Enthusiasts
The first step to building a garden brick barbeque is site selection. The barbeque site should be a level section of garden located close enough to the house for frequent trips to the kitchen but far enough away, so the smoke does not vent directly into the house. As well as smoke concerns, fire hazards such as overhead branches and awnings also help select the location. After selecting the site, determine the length and width for the barbeque and mark it out on the ground using a measuring tape. It is a good idea to do a dry run of bricks to check the measurement before starting the building process.
Some measurements that are useful to determine the total materials needed are as follows: the nominal size for one brick and mortar is 225mm x 102.5mm x 75mm, for mortar a rule of thumb is 25kg of dry mortar for 25 bricks. Do not forget to add a percentage of bricks for breakage. The typical brick barbeque is thirteen brick rows high. Keep brick storage close to building location and keep bricks dry using tarps. Wet bricks can result in lime blooming, which is white staining on the surface of bricks. In addition to bricks and mortar purchase barbeque grates and ashtrays.
After selecting the site and purchasing the bricks, the next step is digging the footings. Dig the footings 24 inches deep along the laid out barbeque outline and tamp down dirt at the bottom of the hole. Coarse cement is appropriate for the footings. Create a pile of mortar on a board and place a well in the top of the pile to add water. A watering can is a good tool to use to add water for the mortar mix since it is easier to control than a bucket. Pour the mortar in the trench and tamp down and level with a timber then leave the footing to cure for two days.
Lay the first course of bricks. Butter the bottom and side edge of each brick with mortar using a trowel. The mortar should be mixed to a consistency of butter and the mortar should not fall off the trowel when held sideways. Check the first course of bricks for level using a spirit level. Build up the corners by three or four bricks then install corner blocks and stretch lines to mark level for the other courses. After every three rows of bricks are laid on the barbeque, point the joints, vertical joints first. Be sure to check for plumb and level frequently. Install brackets in the second and third row of bricks from the top. The lower bracket is for the ashtray and the upper bracket is for the barbeque grill. Cap the top row with coping stones or hard bricks.
Allow the brick barbeque to cure for forty-eight hours before enjoying your new home made DIY garden barbeque.
Some measurements that are useful to determine the total materials needed are as follows: the nominal size for one brick and mortar is 225mm x 102.5mm x 75mm, for mortar a rule of thumb is 25kg of dry mortar for 25 bricks. Do not forget to add a percentage of bricks for breakage. The typical brick barbeque is thirteen brick rows high. Keep brick storage close to building location and keep bricks dry using tarps. Wet bricks can result in lime blooming, which is white staining on the surface of bricks. In addition to bricks and mortar purchase barbeque grates and ashtrays.
After selecting the site and purchasing the bricks, the next step is digging the footings. Dig the footings 24 inches deep along the laid out barbeque outline and tamp down dirt at the bottom of the hole. Coarse cement is appropriate for the footings. Create a pile of mortar on a board and place a well in the top of the pile to add water. A watering can is a good tool to use to add water for the mortar mix since it is easier to control than a bucket. Pour the mortar in the trench and tamp down and level with a timber then leave the footing to cure for two days.
Lay the first course of bricks. Butter the bottom and side edge of each brick with mortar using a trowel. The mortar should be mixed to a consistency of butter and the mortar should not fall off the trowel when held sideways. Check the first course of bricks for level using a spirit level. Build up the corners by three or four bricks then install corner blocks and stretch lines to mark level for the other courses. After every three rows of bricks are laid on the barbeque, point the joints, vertical joints first. Be sure to check for plumb and level frequently. Install brackets in the second and third row of bricks from the top. The lower bracket is for the ashtray and the upper bracket is for the barbeque grill. Cap the top row with coping stones or hard bricks.
Allow the brick barbeque to cure for forty-eight hours before enjoying your new home made DIY garden barbeque.
11 Aug 2009
Tools Needed for Plastering
Prepping for Plaster is the most important step to have the plaster project turn out level and smooth. The tools needed for prep work include Plumb Level and Wood. In order to cut the wood to height you will need a Saw which can either be manual or electric. It will be helpful to also have on hand a few standard building tools before starting the project. You may need a Ladder, Claw Hammer and Buckets. Once the wooden guides are leveled and secured, the plaster can be mixed.
Plaster comes in two bases, cement base and gypsum based. Gypsum based plaster should only be used indoors as it will absorb moisture and is prone to mold. Cement based plaster is for exterior use. Plaster comes in powder form with all additives already in the bag so all that is needed is to add water and mix.
When mixing plaster the least expensive mixing tool is a wooden stick but if mixing a large amount, an electric mixer is a better option. A Mixer Paddle can be attached to a drill and will allow for a thorough mix with much less effort. It is important to mix only a small batch at a time since the plaster has a relatively short working time and cannot be used once it is too dry.
Transporting the plaster from the bucket to the project site is usually done a small batch at a time on a Hawk; a square metal plate with a handle centered underneath. Since plaster is heavy, be sure not to load the Hawk with more than you can comfortably balance and carry. The Hawk is used in conjunction with the Plasterers Trowel but since the Plasterers Trowel is metal and is prone to rusting, an alternative is a polycarbonate Float. The Float or Trowel is used to scoop plaster from the Hawk and apply the plaster to the project surface. A Plasterers Darby is used to smooth the plaster to the correct depth. A Darby is a long metal straight edge with handles which spans the plaster surface and rests on the wooden guides, as it is pulled along the guides it levels the plaster to the finished depth. An alternative to the Darby is a Featheredge which is a long aluminum straight edge also useful for plasterboard applications.
Another tool that is helpful is a Splash Brush. A Splash Brush can be an old paint brush or a wall paper brush. The splash brush is used to keep the plaster from drying out but if left too long, the plaster will become hard and unstable and should not be used. One last tip is to keep all plaster tools clean and free of plaster bits, chips or chunks; any old plaster bits on tools will ruin a smooth finish.
Plaster comes in two bases, cement base and gypsum based. Gypsum based plaster should only be used indoors as it will absorb moisture and is prone to mold. Cement based plaster is for exterior use. Plaster comes in powder form with all additives already in the bag so all that is needed is to add water and mix.
When mixing plaster the least expensive mixing tool is a wooden stick but if mixing a large amount, an electric mixer is a better option. A Mixer Paddle can be attached to a drill and will allow for a thorough mix with much less effort. It is important to mix only a small batch at a time since the plaster has a relatively short working time and cannot be used once it is too dry.
Transporting the plaster from the bucket to the project site is usually done a small batch at a time on a Hawk; a square metal plate with a handle centered underneath. Since plaster is heavy, be sure not to load the Hawk with more than you can comfortably balance and carry. The Hawk is used in conjunction with the Plasterers Trowel but since the Plasterers Trowel is metal and is prone to rusting, an alternative is a polycarbonate Float. The Float or Trowel is used to scoop plaster from the Hawk and apply the plaster to the project surface. A Plasterers Darby is used to smooth the plaster to the correct depth. A Darby is a long metal straight edge with handles which spans the plaster surface and rests on the wooden guides, as it is pulled along the guides it levels the plaster to the finished depth. An alternative to the Darby is a Featheredge which is a long aluminum straight edge also useful for plasterboard applications.
Another tool that is helpful is a Splash Brush. A Splash Brush can be an old paint brush or a wall paper brush. The splash brush is used to keep the plaster from drying out but if left too long, the plaster will become hard and unstable and should not be used. One last tip is to keep all plaster tools clean and free of plaster bits, chips or chunks; any old plaster bits on tools will ruin a smooth finish.
3 Aug 2009
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